Mhdd Not Detecting Drive
Hello,I have a bunch of hard drives that I have pulled out of old computers and want to clean before I get rid of them. However, with most of them I am having a problem in that my pc is not recognizing the hard drives. When I go into Disk Management, it just says Disk 1 Unknown NotInitialized. And I am unable to Initialize the disk. During my troubleshooting, I came across something that indicated to me that these are all in Read Only mode and I've tried various things to remove that, but with no luck.I also tried using Diskpart to remove the Read Only status, but that isn't working either. As you can see from my screenshot, it shows that there is a disk but no space.I can also list the Volumes on this disk.If this was just one or two hard drives, I would think it was just a hard drive problem, but it's nearly every single one. That leads me to believe it is something else.I've been looking online and trying multiple things and having no luck.
- Mhdd Not Detecting Drive Windows 10
- Mhdd Not Detecting Drive License
- Mhdd Not Detecting Drive Windows 7
Does anyone else have an idea of something that will work?Also, I should say that I've tried this on my Windows 10 machine as well as a Windows 7 machine. Same results, unfortunately.Thanks,Jeanie. Brendan Pitstop NZ wrote:hiyaif I am reading this correctly, you have some old HDD's that you just want to ensure have no data before you dispose of themum, why bother with all the mucking around.
My USB key is detected as a HDD and not as a removable device. It's an ultra sandisk 32Go. I've seen with the customer support and they told me that is because of the USB key is for Windows 8 and it's a new thing coming with the new OS: usb keys are detected like a normal disc and not as a removable disc. HDDScan is a free hard drive testing program for all types of drives, no matter the manufacturer. There are several tools included in HDDScan, including a SMART test and a surface test. The program is very easy to use, is completely portable, supports almost all drive interfaces, and seems to be regularly updated.
A ten pound sledge hammer will do that trick.sometimes IT people get carried away and overlook the bleeding obvious! Brendan, that was going to be my next option!However, I did finally figure out the problem.
I don't recall doing this the last time I was wiping drives. But it looks like I have to reboot my computer each time I attach one of these drives and then it recognizes it just fine and I'm able to wipe the HD.DBAN would work except that I don't have any old pc's where I could install these old hard drives. All of the motherboards seem to be made for SATA and I don't have any adapter cables.Anyway, it took me long enough.when in doubt reboot the bleeping computer! My first bit of advice is to stop. Make an image of the disk, and work on that.
The more you use the actual disk, the less likely it is that you will be able to recover data.Maybe you can't do that at this time. You can try this one time before making am image.Try booting to a live Linux disc, preferably gparted, to see if you can read the device.Windows knows that there's something there, but it doesn't know how to read it.
That doesn't always mean that the data is gone, it just means that something has happened and it's preventing Windows from understanding how to interpret it.If the disc is readable, then gparted should be able to read it. Unless you know what you are doing and are absolutely confident that you aren't about to make the disk unreadable, do not change anything at this point.
Shut down and make an image.Once the image is created, work only with it. Recover the data.
Test disk and Photo rec are some programs you can start with. There are others, but you need to get to the point of recovery before worrying about that.When you have your data, you can work on the original and see if the disk is physically damaged. These were old Windows machines that I pulled the hard drives out of.
Most were probably XP machines. I also have several from an HP Proliant DL380 G7 server that we just shut down. I had the same problem with those, too, but since I've never disposed of server hardware before I just figured it was that. But now that I'm trying to clean up all of these others, I see it's pretty much every hard drive I try. I had wanted our IT company who manages the servers to take away the old one but was told by the tech they don't do that. They used to.:-(Sorry, I don't know how to use Linux.
Have you tried using the clean option in diskpart? If that doesn't work, a linux box might be the only option.On a linux box I would just do the following:1. Physically connect the drive2. If it mounts, unmount3. Use dd or maybe even shred or scrub to wipe the drive4. Disconnect and try again on WindowsIf the disks are still giving you problems, it might be the controller forcing the Read Only state. If that's the case, either the disk is physically damaged and this is how it tries to prevent future data loss, or you might need to apply firmware update, even if it's the same version as is currently on the drive.
I would think that they could be dead hard drives except for the fact that I had the same issue with the server hard drives. But then I was able to bring the server back online without a problem and I used my vsphere client to at least remove all of the VM's off of it. Bt I still can't pull each one out and connect it to my Windows machine and disk wipe it, which is what I really want to do. Or any other method used to wipe it.If they were all dead, I wouldn't have been able to do that. I suspect whatever issue is occurring with the server hard drives is the same one I'm encountering with all of these pc hard drives. Dancrane wrote:Kind of weird.
Can you take the drives offline/online through diskpart? Also like the idea of running the clean command as well.It shouldn't matter, but is the ECP being run on a user or admin account?Hi Dan,No, it won't let me take it offline in diskpart, either.
I get the same message that The device isn't ready. To answer your other question, I'm logged into the pc as domain administrator.I looked at the System Event log and this is what it says.Log Name: SystemSource: Virtual Disk ServiceDate: 3/15/2017 1:01:58 PMEvent ID: 10Task Category: NoneLevel: ErrorKeywords: ClassicUser: N/AComputer: 201310-14.domain.comDescription:VDS fails to write boot code on a disk during clean operation. Error code: 8000008Event Xml:46320System201310-14.domain.com8000008.
Jeanie H wrote:GrammarPolice wrote:Windows really isn't a good OS for wiping drives, anyway. As I said before, you'd be much better served by using a dedicated tool like DBAN.I'm trying to use DiskWipe but since my computer can't read the drive, it's useless. Will DBAN work when the drive can't be read?DBAN doesn't use Windows, which is where you are having trouble. If the disk is working, DBAN should see it and let you wipe it. It accesses the drive at a much lower level than Windows allows. I took one of the drives and popped it into one of the pc's I was planning to get rid of and then stuck in a Windows 7 installation disk.
This allowed me to delete all of the partitions and now it's installing a fresh copy of Windows 7 on the machine. At least this way, there shouldn't be any data left on the drive so I'll be comfortable disposing of it.The other hard drives are older and not SATA so I have to see if there is a way for me to set them up in this machine. Hopefully I can so that I can just repeat the process and be done with this.If anyone else comes up with a solution, I'll be happy to hear it! I still have many more of these to go. Hi Jeanie HIt sounds like you do not want to reuse those hard drives.
In these cases I think that the quickest, most reliable and easiest ways of destroying their content is to do it physically. I use a large hammer and old wood chisel. It easily penetrates the thin case where the disc are and punctures them.
Do it a number of times if you are paranoid. Alternatively, some people drill holes in them.
It takes far too long to write zeros or randomise the hard drives.If you want to recycle the hard drives then their content needs to be totally over written. Installing an operating system such as Windows 10 will only use part of the hard drive. As has been mentioned DBAN should do it. In fact all Linux OS's have a way of to over write the data.For the non SATA drives you can buy a caddy to usb device, but these hard drives are valueless and it is easier to go with the physical destruction. Brendan Pitstop NZ wrote:hiyaif I am reading this correctly, you have some old HDD's that you just want to ensure have no data before you dispose of themum, why bother with all the mucking around.
Mhdd Not Detecting Drive Windows 10
A ten pound sledge hammer will do that trick.sometimes IT people get carried away and overlook the bleeding obvious! Brendan, that was going to be my next option!However, I did finally figure out the problem. I don't recall doing this the last time I was wiping drives. But it looks like I have to reboot my computer each time I attach one of these drives and then it recognizes it just fine and I'm able to wipe the HD.DBAN would work except that I don't have any old pc's where I could install these old hard drives. All of the motherboards seem to be made for SATA and I don't have any adapter cables.Anyway, it took me long enough.when in doubt reboot the bleeping computer! Jeanie H wrote:DBAN would work except that I don't have any old pc's where I could install these old hard drives.
All of the motherboards seem to be made for SATA and I don't have any adapter cables.You can boot DBAN on any machine. You are attaching these drives to a machine to wipe them, so why would you not be able to boot DBAN on that machine?Jeanie H wrote:Anyway, it took me long enough.when in doubt reboot the bleeping computer! Glad you got it figured out.Did you decide the data wasn't really important / sensitive enough to wipe out? The way I'm attaching the HD's is through an adapter set so it comes in through a USB port. DBAN doesn't recognize those. It only recognized the internal hard drive. At least that's the way it worked on one of the old machines I tested it on.
I wasn't going to chance hooking it up to my regular pc and accidentally wiping it.These are really old HD's that have just been sitting in storage. At one time, we had a bunch of old pc's and to get them out of here as quickly as possible, I just removed the hard drives and recycled the rest. Figured I would come back later to clear the HD's when I had more time to do so. So, here I am.:-).
How To UNLOCK a Password Protected Western Digital WD, IBM or Hitachi SATA Hard Drive Without Knowing the Master or User PasswordNEW INSTRUCTIONS (May 4, 2019)Look, you are here for a reason. You are stuck. The drive is locked and you’re screwed.
The whole reason for this post is to HELP YOU OUT. I’m not the author. This software can be found in its bare form for free.
I made this available because as a fellow man, I know what its like to help a bro out.What I’m trying to say is if this works for you, please help out the next guy by posting your experiences at the bottom of this page as a comment. Thanks!:I have made everything easier and more clear.
Now you just boot from an.iso file and it does the rest automatically.This guide was intended for Western Digital drives only at this time. I have some reports that software also works on IBM and Hitachi IDE/SATA drives, but I have not confirmed that yet by myself, so I do not claim that it will here yet. If you unlock a non-WD drive, please post your results as a comment.
See Step 8 for IBM/Hitachi command line switches. Read everything on this page. You need to understand that you need a compatible chipset, proper SATA/IDE BIOS settings, and that the WD Unlocker Software only unlocks hard drive bios passwords, and has.only been tested on Western Digital drives. It has not been tested on SED self encrypted drives.NOTE: UNTESTED ON WD My PASSPORT USB DRIVES.SATA/IDE ONLY! NO USB!SATA/IDE ONLY!
Mhdd Not Detecting Drive License
Repeat Step 1.3. You will need:– SATA/IDE hard drive connected to the primary 1 or secondary 2 slot or plug.Updated list of supported drives (no guarantees):Maxtor (except STM),WD,Toshiba,QuantumFujitsu (except MHW,MHZ,MHY,MJA). There is a mistake for MHXNikimi (former Quantum & Maxtor)MDT (former WD)Native Hitachi (DK-xx,HTC.G7AT00)IBM/HGST (many models,except 100hbyteNVRAM & 4K-NVRAM & 2.5″ with blue controllers. (mcu=ARM & B9A3.), disks without NVRAM)ExcelStore(former HGST).Seagate(with parallel flash)+Grand(UX with serial flash).NOTE: UNTESTED ON WD My PASSPORT USB DRIVES.SATA/IDE ONLY! (not tested, no guarantees)– Compatible chipset. I recommend early Intel based with both IDE+SATA support such as Pentium4 based.
I know for a fact that a modern quad core based system such as a Dell T3500 or Lenovo s20 Thinkstation DO NOT WORK. You need an OLDER chipset. I can confirm a HP Compaq d530 desktop WILL WORK. The first time I unlocked a drive, the software failed to detect the drive on two more modern motherboards, until I tried a different third older motherboard and it worked. Knowing this will save you hours of frustration.YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!YOU MUST HAVE A COMPATIBLE CHIPSET!– BIOS SATA/IDE controllers set to the most NATIVE and non- AHCI or non- RAID mode you can set. This setting will vary greatly between motherboards. Try every setting if something fails or the unlocker does not see a drive. You can test a good setting by booting and running a copy of MHDD 4.x ( ).
If MHDD detects and lists the hard drive, then your BIOS settings are correct. If you cannot see the drive, try different drive controller settings in your bios, or get another motherboard.– USB flash drive or blank cd/dvd disc and burner drive to burn the.iso file.-the WD Unlocker Software.exe file (.written by Moltke) and a boot.iso. This software is freely available on the internet. I have done all the other extra hard work and created a complete boot package with all the files you need ready to go.
This includes the hours of research, file procurement, creating a boot.iso, modified and optimized the startup configuration, and then repackaged these up with nice easy instructions. No fucking viruses here. If you don’t want to donate, go click around and download from the russian forums and try your luck. Either way you still need a boot package. The prepared package is available if you like for a small donation here:Download ZU Hard Drive Unlocker files here. TERMS OF SALE:NO REFUNDS DO NOT PURCHASE IF YOU WANT A REFUNDNO RETURNSNO SUPPORTNO GUARANTEES THAT IT WORKS ON YOUR HARDWAREDO NOT BUY THIS SOFTWARE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Warning the.rar file you might be tempted to download from OTHER untrusted links has a very nasty new variant of the Win32/Virut virus. DON’T DOWNLOAD IT! You get what you pay for!
Look you can mess around and register at a dozen Russian forums, download and open a hundred infected zip files, but I’m telling you, don’t waste your time, I’ve already done all the work for you.Unlocker Boot.iso Package Price has increased to $4.99 as of 6/7/2013You will be emailed a download link after checkout.No Guarantees. All Transactions are FINAL.I didn’t write the unlocker software, it will either work or it won’t. I have only compiled and repackaged into a easy to use ready to go download. Your small donation goes to offset my site server costs but hey!
It’s only two bucks! Otherwise, your drive is a guaranteed useless dead brick.4. Download the above software file and save it. Open the.zip/compressed folder.5.
Insert USB Flash Drive. (you could alternatively burn the.iso file to CD or DVD and boot from that instead and skip to Step 8):6. —— From the.zip package file you downloaded n Step 3 ‘ / ‘ (root) and ‘/multiboot/’. This fixes a GRUB error that sometimes keeps the boot menu from showing. Basically just copy the menu.lst file to every folder on the USB Drive to enable GRUB to find it. If you do not do step 7, your boot will probably (but not necessarily) fail at the GRUB prompt.8.
Boot to the USB drive on the computer with the locked drive attached. Choose “Directly Bootable ISOs or Windows XP” from the YUMI boot menu. Then Choose “Boot UnlockerBootImage.iso” from the GRUB boot menu. The unlocker software should automatically load some drivers and start. My drive took 80 minutes to unlock. Just let it work.
If you must quit hit CTRL+C. You may restart the unlocker by typing ‘ unlock.exe /A‘ (all) or ‘ unlock.exe /P‘ (primary) or ‘ unlock.exe /S‘ (slave/secondary) at the dos prompt.
For Hitachi Global Star HGST / IBM drives add a ‘.’ Type ‘ unlock.exe /P.‘ “.” for. For Native Hitachi drives add an ‘8’. If you have success at unlocking a drive, please post a comment adding any additional knowledge that you can share, thanks!: Examples:unlock.exe /A = Western Digital drive on (A)ll controllersunlock.exe /S. = IBM or Hitachi Global Star drive on secondary controller. If You Have Success In Unlocking Your Hard Drive Using This Software, Please Post Your Results As a Comment to This Page So That You May Help Others. ThanksTHANK YOU MOLTKE!
You Deserve all the Credit. OLD INSTRUCTIONS:NOTE: This Guide Was Intended for WESTERN DIGITAL drives only. IT MAY WORK ON OTHER DRIVES AS WELLSo, you have a WD hard drive that has been password locked on the drives own bios, and you can’t format or partition it at all.WHAT YOU NEED:-Hiren’s Boot CD.iso file (i used a combo of v9.2 and 14) -a dos program called ZU. There is a download link below in the instructions.-your locked SATA drive hooked up to a computer with a compatible controller chipset.The motherboard bios must be set to SATA NATIVE.
It Cannot be set to AHCI, RAID modes. So play around with setting your sata controllers to NATIVE. We want no IDE controllers!
Just Sata.A FEW KEY POINTS: This tutorial is only for IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE MASTER, USERhi or USERmax hard drive lock password. This is not the computers bios password. However, the hard drive unlock password is set from within the computers BIOS. This is not the bios password set on the motherboard bios, this is the Password locking the drive from IO read/writes from below the computer’s bios level.The HEX dump / MHDD 4.5 method did not work on my drive.
The scripts would error out and not dump the hex 22.bin file. But i was still able to unlock the drive. The SATA controller on the motherboard matters. I tried two modern computers with no avail (Lenovo thinkstation s20 and Dell T3500). I only got it to work when hooked up to an older P4 based computer with IDE and SATA plugs.
Mhdd Not Detecting Drive Windows 7
I tried for 2 whole days on the new systems before i moved to an older chipset and got it to work.ALL THE CRAP I READ THAT DOESN’T REALLY MATTER IF YOU DON”T HAVE THE PASSWORD:ALL THE CRAP YOU CAN SKIP AND NOT EVEN BOTHER TRYING IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PASSWORD or MFG MASTER PASSWORD:HDDUNLOCKER = its $50 im not payingA-FF Repair Station = again, its $50 and im not payinghdparm linux commands = Secure Erase and all those commands are worthless without a passwordHDDERASE.exe = still need the passwordHDDHACKR.exe = wouldn’t dump sectors 16-21 for me due to NO DRQ error. I suspect this is related to hooking up to a motherboard drive controller that isnt compatible.Victoria = still need the passwordMHDD 4.6 = You need the mhdd.exe scripts anyways. Download and find dump, dump2 and dump48 scripts in the zip file called “mhdd.zip”.
It also contains a perfect 512byte cs.bin file. I tried for 2 days to get the scripts to dump my hex password 22.bin file but they wouldn’t.
I could never get past the NO DRQ or DRIVE ERROR msg in the last line of the dump scripts. READ ON BRAVE UNLOCKER! There is a way!MFG MASTER PASSWORDs: Didn’t work for me. I suspect this is because this drive came from a secure bizhub konica minolta copier and the MASTER pw was changed from default. ‘WDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWDCWD’, ‘h20insyde’ and all the rest did not work BUT YOU SHOULD PROBABLY TRY THEM IN MHDD FIRST!
If you see any error message or in ‘Device List’ menu at your disk you see a notice ‘!DCO: FROZEN’, then it is possible that BIOS was sent a command DCO Freeze and all subsequent DCO commands will be aborted now. How to try bypass this state see answer nr.
2.Q2: How to bypass a Security and/or DCO frozen state?A2: Turn off PC, remove ribbon (data) cable from this hard drive (not the power cable), turn on PC and after boot from floppy you can connect ribbon (data) cable back to hard drive and start up HDAT2. Don’t worry – program can detect this device.Notice: this is valid only for PATA drivers, not for SATA drivers.If you have SATA drive in Security and/or DCO frozen state, simple solution is connect this drive to PC with BIOS which doesn’t set security mode. I have a Momentus 5400.6 (250 GB) SATA HDD which was connected to a Lenovo 3000 N 100 laptopModel: ST9250315ASS/N: 6VCLC6VHThe laptop would boot to BIOS (typing the Password) and then onto Windows Logon. The laptop’s Motherboard has gone bad and is beyond repair.
I do not remember setting up HDD Lock through the BIOS however now when I attach the HDD to another laptop or Desktop on booting it is asking a password, though I remember the password and it is the same it gives me error and after 5 tries I have to re-boot once again.I researched on the web and found a program MHDD 4.5 & 4.6 through which I could see the HDD using DOS boot, it says ATA Password Lock, Security HIGHCurrently the HDD is spinning and is not in a frozen state.Can you help please in getting the HDD unlocked as I require the data and cannot Erase it. Problem #1 – Momentus is a Seagate drive. This guide is not tested on Seagate drives. That does not mean that it will not work, it just means I do not know if it will work and have not tested Seagate drives myself.Problem #2 – Have you ran the unlocker software? If you can see the drive is locked in MHDD then it sounds like your chipset is compatible, however your drive brand may not be.Option #1 – If you do not want to use the unlocker software, I would try the HEX dump / MHDD 4.5 method and try to pull your own.bin file. I could never get this method to work myself.
Just want to confirm “zu /P” worked on a WD30EZRX (3.0TB) on an ASUS P5Q3 (P45 chipset, ICH10R), unlocking it immediately. Perhaps the most significant factor was to connect the drive to the first SATA port (SATA1 in BIOS) and configure the Intel SATA controller to IDE Compatible. (I had also disabled other advanced CPU/motherboard features, but I doubt they were critical.)I had connected it on SATA4 and SATA3. In such cases, “zu /P” and “zu /S” failed immediately, while “zu /A” lasted for 15 min before I pressed “Ctrl-C”. It was also futile when the drive was connected to the eSATA port of the on-board JMicron controller (IDE mode).The drive was password-locked when a secure erase procedure was interrupted or bugged out. To make things even worse, the nominal drive size was reduced to 801GB in BIOS (or in Windows, DOS, Linux). I was able to correct it by using the “SWITCHMBR” command in MHDD (v4.5) after the drive was successfully unlocked.
Apparently, the LBA parameters were corrupted.Hope my experience helpful to others. Thank you for the valuable information about the primary SATA port and the P45 chipset. Also Thank you to the author Moltke. I cannot stress the importance of using an older Pentium 3 etc motherboard with basic SATA and/or IDE ports. The software seems to really like the older or certain chipsets on the motherboard.The russian forums come and go. I do not know if the original source of this software is still publishing his software.
A few years ago they called me a ‘clown’ or a ‘joker’ because i reposted his software for donation. But they didn’t understand that i packaged it all up, fought off the russian virus bot websites, and made it into something actually usefull. Look, I am an old school telco hacker and im just trying to keep the goods flowing. I am sure Motlke has released a newer version, but good luck downloading it. Anyways, what is here works, wont infect your shit with HD firmware viruses, and works.
So phreak out, phreak out and touch someone. Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum!
2600 ATH1 M1 L3. Dear,Yep its free software. I clearly state that above (2x times actually), and give credit to the author Moltke (4x times). I even highlighted that in a pretty pink text color so it would stand out.
Because I am not a dick. What I am offering for a donation is a complete virus free and prepared boot package.
Something the author does not offer. As well as hours of research and chasing down bad information, to help better someone else. This is probably an older version anyways. I am not quite sure what the ‘scam’ is here.
You could do better than download from this site. Don’t send me your donation, I do not want it. Your link is above. Have fun downloading viruses from the russian forums.You must think I am a millionaire by now. Actually, I am lucky to even cover the monthly cost of the shopping cart, so you might want to know the software is not as lucrative as you may think. You may want to explain to the lawyers that the legal court lawsuit damages may not even add up to the cost of a nice dinner and a pint of beer.
Assuming they are fine educated people, I am sure they will be happy to work on a legal case with such a very low monetary return potential. After reviewing my Paypal logs, I think we have received about 5 donations ($22.75) so far this year 2015, which puts me at about negative -$10 profit for 2015 (the ejunkie cart costs $5/mo). My wife, being so proud of my financial business prowess, she feels the need to constantly comment about our new found riches all of the time. Over and over.